Carnation in Perfumery: Divine Flower and Spicy Note

History and Symbolism: What Does the Carnation Represent?

The carnation is a flower that has different meanings throughout history and depending on the country.

Superstitions and Traditions

In France, it is unthinkable to offer carnations to the hostess, why? It is a superstition that comes from the world of theater; theater directors sent carnations, inexpensive flowers, to artists.

This meant that the artist was dismissed. Conversely, sending roses to the artists’ dressing room meant that their contracts would be maintained.

The carnation was often worn as a boutonniere. Henry IV wore it white, a symbol of traditionalism and conservatism. The red carnation was a revolutionary sign. As for the green carnation worn by Oscar Wilde, it was a subtle way of announcing his homosexuality.

International Symbolism

The carnation is a flower that blooms abundantly in cemeteries in France, whereas in Japan, carnations have a very positive meaning such as love and distinction. They are often given for Mother’s Day.

It is also widely used in Japanese art: ikebana, poems, films, books, kimonos, tableware, origami papers, fans… In China, the carnation symbolizes social success and happiness.

The Carnation in Literature

Extract from Guillaume Apollinaire’s poem, a calligram, Standards – the mandolin, the carnation and the bamboo.

Let this carnation tell you
The law of odors
That has not yet been promulgated and which will come
One day
To reign over our brains much more precise and subtle
Than the sounds that direct us
I prefer your nose to all organs
Oh my friend
It is the throne of future WISDOM

Olfactory Description and Technique in Perfumery

Botanical variety: Asteraceae and Caryophyllus
It is also called Dianthus, divine flower for the Greeks.

The carnation has a subtle balsamic and spicy fragrance, a scent of clove. The carnation can yield its odor naturally, treated in Grasse, but its scent is very disappointing as it is far from that of the fresh flower. Moreover, its yield being very low, it is rarely used.

The carnation note has seen a resurgence in recent years, especially in confidential perfumery (cf. Confidential perfumery).

Reconstitution: A “Silent” Flower

It is a flower that is reproduced by a composition called a carnation accord or carnation reconstitution. It can be considered a silent (or mute) flower like violet, lily of the valley, lilac, or freesia (cf. Flowers). It takes a large place in a composition (cf. The olfactory pyramid).

A base marketed by Givaudan called Méthyl Dianthilis is widely used in perfumery. A carnation accord or reconstitution is composed in broad terms of:

• Rose and Jasmine
• Methylionone (cf. Powdery flowers, violet scent)
• Benzyl Salicylate (cf. The solar note)
• Iso-eugenol derived from clove (cf. Spices)
• Heliotropin
• Ylang-ylang (cf. White flowers)
• Vanillin (cf. Vanilla)

The eugenol and methyl eugenol notes are highly regulated and limited by current laws in perfumery (IFRA). In summary, the scent of carnation is the scent of a spicy rose.

Other Spicy Flowers

Other spicy flowers are the wallflower and the immortelle. Carnation should not be confused with the marigold (French marigold), also called tagetes.

Perfumes Based on Carnation

L’Origan by François Coty (1905) is the first carnation-based perfume. It possessed this spicy carnation floral base (clove, nutmeg, cinnamon) which mingled with oriental or amber notes, floriental notes in a way.

Here is the list of perfumes from its prolific lineage:

• L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
• Opium by YSL
• Youth Dew by Estée Lauder
• Cinnabar by Estée Lauder
• Bellodgia by Caron
• En Avion by Caron
• Tabu by Dana
• Infusion d’Oeillet by Prada
• Après L’Ondée by Guerlain
• L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain
• Lui by Guerlain
• L’Heure Convoitée by Cartier
• Vitriol d’œillet by Serge Lutens
• Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel
• Fidji by Guy Laroche
• Florabotanica by Balenciaga
• Œillet Louis XV by Oriza L Legrand
• Œillet Sauvage by L’Artisan Parfumeur
• Œillet de Bengale by Aedes de Venustas
• Shanghai Lily by Tom Ford
• Florentina by Delacourte Paris