Guerlain’s Cosmetic History: From Scenting Creams to Makeup Innovations

Before Thierry Wasser arrived at Guerlain, I contributed to improving the scent of the Issima creams. Indeed, at the time, the fragrance was worked around the scent of rose, but especially around geranium “it’s a somewhat harsh note”.

Scenting Skincare: Sylvaine Delacourte‘s Expertise

Then, I worked on the scent of the Happylogy cream (rose chocolate note) which has since been discontinued, then on that of the Orchidée Impériale line (a slightly powdery floral note, the cosmetic scent I am most proud of!), the Success line (amber note), the Perfect White range (very transparent and clean rosy note), and lipsticks, foundations, etc.

My last cosmetic fragrance development at Guerlain was the scent for the Abeille Royale range.

So I worked not only on the development of so-called “alcoholic” perfumes but also on the development of “cosmetic perfumes”. It must be remembered that Guerlain was a very daring brand, not only in fragrances but also in cosmetics.

The Guerlain Dynasty: Founders and Creators

Founder of the brand in 1828, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, originally from Abbeville, was employed by perfume houses for which he traveled across France to sell raw materials. Then, he studied in England and learned soap-making techniques of which the English were masters. Moreover, he imported English products before creating his own products himself.

Back in Paris, he set up as a Perfumer-Vinegar Maker at 42 rue de Rivoli, on the ground floor of what has today become the Hotel Meurice.

First, he sold products imported from England, then his own creations, scented waters and beauty products, which immediately met with immense success including soaps, creams and pomades of all kinds, preparations to whiten the skin, toothpastes, laundry perfumes, and collections of accessories (brushes, combs, mirrors, bottles…).

Sign: “Parfumeur-Vinaigrier”, an address where the elegant Tout-Paris flocked!

From 1830, he was recognized as a true precursor. He chose to personalize his Eaux de Toilette and thus created, in 1853, the Eau de Cologne Impériale which he dedicated to Empress Eugénie.

The latter granted him the Patent of Supplier to the Imperial Court. The success was immediate and continues today. The Guerlains would then continue to create “custom perfumes” for personalities like Sarah Bernhardt, Baudelaire, Kings and Queens…

During my years at Guerlain, I ensured “custom creations”, not only for a Middle Eastern clientele but also for European personalities. We have a clientele that is both female and male, practically in equal measure!

The Family Legacy

• Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain: Genius creator, he was also a daring entrepreneur. In 1842, after being refused distribution of his products in a large Parisian department store, he decided to control the distribution of his products in Paris.
• Aimé Guerlain: He inherited his father’s talent for creating perfumes. Like his father, he studied chemistry in England. He created many perfumes, but let’s remember Jicky, the “stroke of genius”.
• Jacques Guerlain: Unanimously recognized as one of the greatest noses of the 20th century. He was only 16 when he created his very first perfume: Ambre. A genius creator, he designed nearly 400 perfumes. This music lover collected impressionist works in his Parisian mansion but was never as comfortable as in the secrecy of his laboratory.
• Jean-Paul Guerlain: Trained very young in all perfumery techniques in the family factory in Courbevoie. Initiated and advised by Jacques, he took charge of Guerlain perfume creation upon his grandfather’s death.
• Thierry Wasser: Spiritual son of Monsieur Jean-Paul Guerlain: a “non-Guerlain” takes the reins of creation. With him now, Delphine Jelk develops the fragrances.

The History of Guerlain Cosmetics

For 181 years, Guerlain has been creating beauty products. Makeup is a long history: in the very first years, at 42 rue de Rivoli, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain quickly sold his own beauty products, manufactured in his factory at the Barrière de l’Etoile.

After the first creams to soften, refresh, and beautify the skin, Guerlain created his first complexion powders, mainly for the British clientele of the Hotel Meurice.

• Cold Cream, Ladies in All Climates then rivaled with Poudre de Cygne, Poudre aux Fleurs, and Alba Pulvis.
• Then came the first blushes, the first lip or cheek stains. Liquid, they were sold in small delicately sealed bottles, accompanied by a Paris porcelain cup, to be applied with a cotton pad.
• Bloom of Rose, Rouge de Cour revived the precious lips of elegant women.

From 1840, solid blushes were presented in adorable little porcelain mortars, then in glass decorated with fine gold. It was also the time of blushes with evocative names, “Carmin de Chine”, “Rouges de Carthame”, “Rouge de Damas”.

The “Pyrommée”, created around 1878, would be sold until 1940. It is the ancestor of modern kohl, which could also be used to color eyebrows. At the very beginning of the 20th century, the range of greasy rouges for cheeks was enriched with “Rose du Moulin” which would be sold until 1950.

The “Poudre C’est Moi” would be the great success of the interwar period. Scented with Iris or Shalimar, its fame would cross the Atlantic. It would then be scented with all the great Guerlain perfumes of the time.

The First Lipstick in a Stick

Guerlain can boast of being undoubtedly among the first, if not the first, to launch a lipstick in a stick. They even launched an indelible lipstick! “Rouge d’Enfer” illustrates Guerlain’s demanding quest for the beauty gesture, clever, luxurious, and practical: upon opening the cap, two small chains bring the stick into the open air.

With a simple gesture, the cap closes and retracts the lipstick. It expresses everything a Guerlain makeup should be: audacity and product quality, sensuality of textures, beauty of a refined and luxurious case, simplicity of the makeup gesture.

The First Beauty Institute in the World

In 1939, Guerlain innovated again by opening the first Beauty Institute in the world on the 1st floor of 68 Champs-Élysées (Doctor d’Aubiac’s method). A technique still used in our institutes worldwide, with the famous 19-minute massage, not one less not one more, where each muscle is toned with 25 pressures.

The Terracotta Revolution (1984)

Terracotta was created in 1984; it is the first compact bronzing powder that met with immediate worldwide success. “Sun Earths” existed but were difficult to use for an unnatural result.

The genius of Dominique SZABO, Director of Guerlain Makeup Creation, was to compact a texture close to face powder and have it applied with a brush. (Scent of Chant d’Arômes).

In 1997, Terracotta became the first High Hold Moisturizing Bronzing Powder. Terracotta remains, even today, the leading bronzing powder on the French and international market.

The Météorites (1987)

In 1987, we see another brilliant invention by Guerlain: The Météorites, the prettiest way to sublimate your complexion. At launch, this product created a revolution: queues in all our boutiques, stock shortages, copies etc. Here again, Dominique SZABO dared and succeeded in a more than audacious bet!

These funny colored balls of all colors (deliciously scented with a very floral and powdery perfume that inspired me for the creation of Insolence) would be available, in 1989, in the form of a luxurious refillable case.

In 1990, The Météorites were completed by a range of refillable Lipsticks and, in 1991, there was even a refillable purse spray into which one could slip their Samsara, Shalimar, or Mitsouko.

Mythical Disappeared Skincare

In 1828 the Cold Cream of Roses was a success. It provided the complexion with the most salutary freshness, softened the skin, and preserved its suppleness and radiance. It was very effective against tanning, chapping, and all the inconveniences of cold and temperature changes.

The first makeup was Bloom of Rose, a liquid lipstick. Its use required a hand-decorated porcelain cup.

The first pharmaceutical potion was the Crème à la Fraise (Strawberry Cream) for the complexion released in 1840. It was used to soften, refresh, and beautify the skin. Through continuous use, it made freckles disappear.

This cream also calmed irritations due to shaving and the causticity of soaps. It was the favorite product of Empress Sissi who used it to protect her skin during equestrian rides.