The Osmanthus Flower: The Unique Natural Fruity Note with Apricot and Leathery Facets
Osmanthus is a rare and still little-known raw material in perfumery. Yet it is increasingly present in fragrance compositions, especially in niche perfumery. Let’s uncover the secrets of this exotic flower, a symbol of wisdom and perpetual renewal.
Origin, Culture, and Symbolism of the Fragrant Olive
Osmanthus mainly blooms in southern China, between Guilin and Yangzhou. In fact, Guilin means “forest of osmanthus” in Chinese.
Its tiny flowers — less than a centimeter, usually white (sometimes golden orange or red) — emit a surprisingly powerful and long-lasting fragrance. In Greek, osmanthus means “fragrant flower”.
The genus Osmanthus includes around fifteen species. The one used in perfumery is Osmanthus fragrans, also known as “Fragrant Olive” or “Chinese Olive”. Only China produces osmanthus concrete. In Asia, this flower symbolizes wisdom and perpetual renewal.
The Unique Fragrance: Natural Fruity, Apricot, and Leather
Its floral, sensual, and slightly animal scent is reminiscent of jasmine, but its signature lies in its complex fruity profile:
- Main Note: Highly fruity, it strongly evokes dried apricot (or ripe peach).
- Secondary Facets: It possesses leathery, hay-like, and slightly smoky nuances.
This rare flower offers one of the only natural fruity notes in perfumery, alongside ingredients like davana or blackcurrant. Most fruity notes (pear, apple, peach) are generally produced synthetically or through accords.
Production Challenge: The Unique Brine (Saltwater) Extraction Process
The extraction of osmanthus is technically challenging because the delicate flowers fade quickly. The unique production process involves preserving the flowers:
- Conservation: The flowers are immediately immersed in a brine (saltwater solution) to preserve them and allow production over a six-month period.
- Extraction: After 3 to 4 months in brine, the flowers are washed and extracted to yield the concrete. The final absolute is obtained via ethanol extraction.
The low yield makes the material expensive: it takes 720 kg of flowers to produce only 750 g of absolute. Key molecules include undecalactone (fruity) and ionones.
Other Uses and Iconic Perfumes
Beyond perfumery, osmanthus is used to flavor tea, wine, cakes, and honey. It is also known for its calming and soothing effects.
Selection of Iconic Osmanthus Perfumes
- Fruity & Floral: Eau de Dolce Vita, Christian Dior; 1000, Jean Patou; Flora by Gucci, Gucci; Good Girl Gone Bad, By Kilian.
- Osmanthus Solinotes: Osmanthe Yunnan, Hermès; Osmanthus Interdite, Parfum d’Empire; Osmanthus, Acqua di Parma; Love Osmanthus, Atelier Cologne.
- Leathery & Thematic: Galop, Hermès; Mille Feux, Louis Vuitton; Noël au Balcon, État Libre d’Orange.
