Perfumes of the World: Olfactory Journey to Japan, China and Spain

I have just returned from a trip (to Spain and Japan) where I conducted, among other things, numerous “perfume consultations” for our Very Important Clients.

I already knew to what extent the choice of a perfume was dependent on culture, diet, natural environment, family habits… of each individual! I had confirmation of this with nevertheless a few small surprises for Japan.

Japan: Between Tradition and Olfactory Revolution

Discreet Perfume, Gift Perfume

The majority of Japanese women have a cult of “cleanliness” and do not like perfume very much. It is very inappropriate to be perfumed in Japan. And since there is great respect for others, the Japanese do everything not to disturb those around them.

Gifting is an important act, they are an extremely refined people, gift packages are always magnificent, perfume is easily given and quite often the package is never opened. Thus, the same gift travels from house to house. If opened, the perfume sometimes becomes a decorative object in the home.

There was a great craze among young women for baby products, like Tartine et Chocolat or like the late Petit Guerlain. Then, little by little, the younger generation began to wear perfume, from green floral notes to fruity floral notes (like In Love Again, Baby Doll, and all perfumes in this trend).

Of course, the “fashion” phenomenon is very important, and the leading products are: J’adore, Coco Mademoiselle, and recently Chloé.

Subtle Perfume and Sakura (Cherry Blossom)

At Guerlain, we had a perfume that had incredible success for a good number of years: Cherry Blossom (slightly fruity tea note) which celebrates the cherry blossom festival, a very important festival in Japan, the Sakura.

This season in Japan marks the return of cherry blossoms. The best time to see cherry blossoms is during the first week of April.

Japanese men and women then have a buying fever for everything based on cherry blossom: pastries, drinks, tea etc… dances, songs, games, kimono shows, flower displays, parades, historical beauty pageants, religious ceremonies, and much more celebrate the cherry blossom.

The great tradition is also to reserve one’s place under a blooming cherry tree, for a picnic or to rest. It is the height of luxury and the ideal place to make wishes for happiness.

Forests, Chypre and the Furo-Sento Ritual

I had somewhat remained on the idea that Japanese women liked to wear only perfumes like Cherry Blossom, but by conducting my perfume consultations – I specify on “quite educated” people – I was surprised to note a certain taste for woody and chypre notes as well as for green notes.

It is not surprising that Mitsouko is still the first reference in our catalog in the Land of the Rising Sun. Its name, highly appreciated, has a lot to do with it, of course. But even more so its woody and moss notes, evoking the forest dear to the Japanese (walking in the forest is the favorite family outing). Mitsouko pleases because it is a true chypre neither too “sweet” nor too flowery.

Hinoki wood (cedar) is very present in the bath ritual. Thanks to its volcanic origins, Japan has multiple hot springs, which gave birth to a veritable cult of the bath ritual. Thus, the water in which one bathes is not just hot water, but water that has passed through the bowels of the earth, to be loaded with minerals and finally be naturally very hot.

• The Furo (or Ofuro): designates the family bath.
• The Sento: designates the public bath.

The Furo-Sento is therefore a compromise between the two. The temperature of an Ofuro is maintained at a constant between 40°C and 56°C. You can imagine that the skin reddens, but as a result, the tensions of the day disappear spontaneously.

One must first wash the body completely or even scrub, before entering the basin, then rinse thoroughly. The basin is continuously filled with boiling water, which means that the amount of water inside remains at the same temperature. The Japanese bathtub is made of wood (cedar) and often overlooks a garden that is always Zen and refined.

Modern versions are built of marble or stone. It is a real experience that I was lucky enough to have in Kyoto. The boss of the subsidiary absolutely wanted me to go into the bath with the Japanese press officer, but I confess that being modest, I preferred to go alone knowing that I had offended them.

Little-Known Flowers and the Gourmand Phenomenon

Back to perfume. The “fashion” effect has a lot of impact: recently, in a “trendy” newspaper, a journalist spoke fervently about Après l’Ondée (advising it specifically for men), this article triggered a real rush to our counters.

I also observed that many women like powdery floral notes, which is not surprising when you know that they use a lot of cosmetic products scented with this type of notes. They have a total lack of knowledge of flowers. The flower is for them more of a concept than a precise smell, rose and lily of the valley are two smells they appreciate and know a little.

Above all, they love orchids, which do not smell. They are very sensitive to textures, and to the vocabulary of touch: airy, dense, thick, velvety, silky, rasping, etc.

The gourmand craze: Recent phenomenon, essentially for women! They discovered vanilla and chocolate. Entire floors in department stores are dedicated to sweets, whereas culturally the Japanese do not know the notion of sweet and dessert is not as common as here (very rare bean-based desserts).

It seems that for the first time, one begins to see “obese” people in Japan. Speaking of sweet, did you know that fruits are sold individually dressed in beautiful lace? It would not occur to them to buy a kilo, or even 250 g.

A Voluptuous Revolution?

Where I was surprised is that young and less young clients dare to wear more voluptuous fragrances. I was astonished by this evolution, even revolution (this is the 7th time I have been to Japan), when I saw them buy without problem: Gourmand Coquin, Cuir Beluga, Angélique Noire, Chypre Fatal etc… and I smiled when a client told me that “Le voyage olfactif New York” (very woody), felt “too Japanese” for her.

• Number one in Japan in 2008: Mitsouko
• Number two: Samsara (followed by the Aquas)

China: Orchid and Purity

The word Guerlain is difficult to pronounce for many countries, but in China, the word Guerlain “sounds” familiar; it has a very precise and positive meaning, since it means orchid in Chinese. You will understand why the Orchidée Impériale cosmetics line is particularly appreciated there.

For comparison and Unlike Japan, the Chinese like perfume which is part of their culture. After the experience of Shanghai and Hong Kong, I realized that because of pollution and heat, it was difficult to wear oriental or simply heady perfumes there.

Chinese women are attracted to fresh floral notes, magnolia is particularly appreciated in China, it is cultivated in southern China, moreover it is a flower symbol of purity and feminine beauty.

In our classics, the choice is oriented towards Champs Elysées, Insolence Eau Glacée, the Aquas, and L’Instant Magic. We distribute Maison Guerlain products in Hong Kong at Harvey Nichols, the best sales are Angélique Noire, Rose Barbare, and Cruel Gardénia.

Spain: Freshness and Orange Blossom

Children from an early age are “doused” with eau de cologne hence the success in Spain of Aqua Allegoria and fresh notes in general. Moreover, the hot climate does not encourage wearing a heady perfume.

Spanish women have a particular attraction for orange blossom, a flower very present in nature in Spain, as well as for immortelle. It is therefore not surprising that Les Secrets de Sophie and Cologne du 68 are so appreciated in Spain. Our number one in 2008 in Spain was Insolence followed by the Instant range.

We have just opened the Maison Guerlain in San Sebastian in a traditional perfumery, Benegas. It has existed since 1908 and the owners are, as for the “Place Vendôme” perfumery in Belgium, professional, passionate, and lovers of the Guerlain Brand.

I spent an exquisite moment there and was able to meet journalists, VIPs, and perfume enthusiasts alike. The hits at Benegas are Rose Barbare, Angélique Noire, Cruel Gardénia, Cuir Beluga, and Cologne du 68.

I am leaving next week for Canada for Guerlain, Toronto and Montreal, I will most certainly do a little review of the tastes of Canadian women, and the United States. See you very soon!