Sesame in Perfumery: A Gourmand and Toasted Note
Sesame is a word immortalised by the tales of the One Thousand and One Nights, “Open Sesame” in the story of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves.
Although its origin was brought to light in this tale, it means something quite different: namely, an appropriate means — akin to a password or a letter of introduction — for gaining access to a passage or a highly restricted place. The connection between the sesame seed and the key that opens the cave or secret places remains rather obscure.
In the sixth century BC, it is recorded that wealthy Assyrians used this oil for their skincare. Sesame seeds have played a daily role since the most ancient times. It is a plant that opens the door to our appetites and our nostrils.
Origin and Botany
Botanical name: Sesamum indicum
Originating from Central Africa and the Orient, sesame belongs to the Pedaliaceae family. Sesame comprises 36 species and is found today in 60 countries; the Indian variety is the most widely used.
The plant measures between 60 cm and 2 metres in height and bears numerous capsules that somewhat resemble snapdragons, enclosing the sesame seeds — approximately sixty small oleaginous seeds that resemble linseed. The flowers are white or wine-coloured.
They can be consumed as they are, dehydrated, roasted, toasted, blonde, brown or black, or pressed into oil. Sesame oil can be cold-pressed for cosmetic use or hot-pressed for industrial purposes.
Culinary and Traditional Uses
This plant is widely used in Southeast Asian cuisine to add flavour to dishes. In Japan, roasted sesame seeds are mixed with salt to make Gomasio. In the Middle East, sesame is ground into a paste to prepare the renowned Tahini. It is greatly valued in the Middle East as well as in India, both in cooking and in Ayurvedic medicine.
Sesame in Perfumery: A Hazelnut and Warm Bread Note
Its scent in perfumery is remarkably faithful to the seed one consumes. It is at once exotic and spicy, with an unsweetened gourmand facet redolent of caramelised hazelnuts. Sesame evokes warm bread, maple syrup, coffee and peanut.
Its use in perfumery is rather rare. It is now available as a natural product. It pairs particularly well with vanilla, woody and oriental notes (cf. Oriental facet, Woody facet).
CO2 Extraction
To be used in perfumery, sesame is most commonly processed by CO2 extraction, a method that preserves its original scent (cf. CO2 Extraction).
Cosmetic and Health Benefits
It is a seed rich in lipids and unsaturated fatty acids. It can be used in cosmetics as it is highly nourishing and brings softness to the skin.
- Rich in antioxidants such as vitamin E, it combats cell ageing.
- Sesame lowers blood pressure, benefiting cardiovascular and intestinal health.
- The sesame seed stimulates intellectual activity and memory; it is rich in lignans that play a role similar to that of oestrogens.
- The seed is a source of remineralising minerals and trace elements as well as fibre; 60 ml of sesame seeds provide more calcium than 250 ml of milk.
- Sesame is rich in phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, manganese, copper, iron and vitamins B1, B2, B6 & B3.
Sesame-Based Perfumes
Here is the list of fragrances featuring sesame:
- Ambre Narguile and Epices Marine by Hermes
- Pour La Fin Du Monde by Etat Libre d’Orange
- Florabellio by Diptyque
- Night Call by Ex Nihilo
- Ange Noir by Givenchy
- Desert suave by Liquides Imaginaires
- Haramens by Pierre Guillaume
- Kedu by Memo
- Jade Leaf Tea by Jo Malone
- Pavillon Rouge by Jovoy
- Aqua Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo
- Dolce Flore by Incalmo
- Trouble-Fete by Givenchy
- Osiris by Delacourte Paris
