The Art of Scenting Cosmetics: History and Cultural Imprints

Here is a summary of the conference by Anne Abriat (Director of Perfume and Sensory Innovation) which took place on February 9, 2012, at the International Perfume Museum (MIP) in Grasse. The conference was very comprehensive and rich in concrete examples of the scenting of cosmetic products across civilizations.

History of Scenting: From Antiquity to Islam

Oils, Perfumes, ointments, makeup, and dyes… few traces remain of the cosmetic products used in classical Greece. From the 7th century BC, the Greeks took advantage of the development of trade with the Near East to develop their perfumes with Balsam of Judea, cinnamon, saffron, styrax, incense, and myrrh in olive or almond oils (cf. “On Odors” by Theophrastus).

In the 1st century AD in Rome, there was a wide variety of perfumes produced locally or coming from different regions of the Empire. The Foliatum or perfume of rich women was very in vogue as well as the Royal Perfume with 24 aromatics and 3 excipients.

All the Perfumes of the Earth (Islamic World)

A well-known hadith, attributed to the Prophet Muhammad, says: “Assuredly, God is beautiful and loves Beauty.” This is how the Islamic society of the Middle Ages developed an exquisite taste for flowers, plants, and aromatic balms.

Perfume invaded daily life in mosques and private places. The Andalusians scented their interiors with fragrances based on Indian aloe and sandalwood, resins (incense, myrrh), and animal substances.

Perfumes of Desire (China)

A fantasy of Chinese tradition holds that the most beautiful woman is the one whose body emanates a perfume so subtle that it merges with her. The woman after the evening bath is a recurring theme in Chinese literature.

Freshly made up after her bath, covered with a pink powder whose subtle perfume impregnates her silk clothes. Under the Tang dynasty, a new belief emerged: the scented powder eventually fuses with the body.

Eaux de Toilette and Cosmetics from the 17th to the 19th Century

Toilet vinegars and scented waters were the prerogative of the 17th century as products for Toilette and Health:

• 55 scented waters including the “Vinaigre des 4 voleurs” (Four Thieves Vinegar), the “Mille fleurs de Maille”.
• Pierre François Guerlain would offer a wide variety of waters including L’Eau de Campan, L’Eau Ambrée, Eau du Laurier, and Flower Waters: citron, elderberry, rose, cucumber, lavender, violet, heliotrope, and New World products: amber, musk, spices, and personalized waters.
• Cucumber Milk, Rose Milk by Guerlain, year 1880 Orange Blossom Petal Water.
• Almond Milk refreshes the complexion, Benzoin Butter beautifies the skin, Iris Milk refreshes the complexion and whitens the skin.
• Virgin Milk made from benzoin and rose water, milky emulsion, Cress Alcoolat for teeth.
• Bloom of Rose, Vinegar of Rouge, liquid lipstick Le Damask Drop.
• Liquid blush, Muscle Oil, Sapoceti depilatory powder, white whale soap with rose.

The Modern Era: The Beauty Business

Formerly belonging to the intimate and artisanal domain, Beauty became a major social issue throughout the 20th century. Basic recipes barely modified from rose water scented cold cream; Nivea cream (1911), Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream (1935), Nutrix Lancôme (1936), Secret de Bonne Femme Guerlain (1900).

The progress of specific chemistry supported by the large laboratories of these brands disrupted the beauty sector. Synthetic perfumes appeared in cosmetic products: Dual Finish Lancôme, Rouge Baiser, Strawberry Cream by Guerlain.

From the 1960s, the North American market became the most important cosmetics market with players such as Revlon, Estée Lauder, and Coty who democratized cosmetics. Products for men appeared around 1960 (Basic Homme Vichy, Old Spice, Biotherm Homme 1985).

Cultural Olfactory Imprints

A socio-cultural olfactory journey through the standards of each region:

In Europe

• Baby smells: Johnson’s baby talc
• Cologne: the very first Perfume
• Fougère: the scent of toilet soaps and men
• Lavender: a scent already revamped
• Rose: the essential reference
• Nivea, Elnett, Mixa: the archetypes of olfactory imprint

In the United States

• Baby smells: Johnson’s baby talc
• From Colognes with Citrus notes to “Cucumber Melon” notes

In Brazil

• Baby smells: Johnson’s baby talc
• Lavender alfazema
• “Erva Doce” or Star Anise, infusion like chamomile

The Future of Scenting: Science or Art?

Perfume is very important: its effects transcend just the simple appreciation of the smell. It is one of the functional assets of the product. It acts on 2 levels, conscious and unconscious, to increase the perception of the product’s effectiveness and the pleasure it brings to the consumer.

The variety of expressions of beauty reflects the cultural diversity of the world. The scenting of cosmetics accompanies the cultural and universal values of beauty:

• Thanks to science, scenting participates in and reinforces effectiveness.
• Thanks to art, scenting through its aesthetic form gives pleasure and well-being.