The New Freshness Facet: Guide to Dihydromyrcenol and “Clean” Notes
In perfumery, facets dress the main theme of the fragrance. The more facets there are, the more complex the perfume will be. The “New Freshness” olfactory facet in perfumery is obtained through synthetic notes, specifically dihydromyrcenol.
What Is Freshness in Perfumery?
The sensation of freshness in a fragrance is very subjective and depends primarily on individual perception.
For example, one person might classify Shalimar by Guerlain as a “fresh” perfume (thanks to its bergamot), whereas technically speaking, this fragrance is mostly composed of very warm and enveloping ambery notes. In general, the perceived sensation of freshness is often a sign that the fragrance is appreciated.
However, there are perfumes that are technically very fresh and considered as such by perfumers. We distinguish different types of freshness in perfumery:
- Hesperidic freshness with citrus fruits: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange.
- Aromatic freshness with mint, anise, or lavender notes.
- Green freshness with scents of sap and cut grass.
- Marine freshness with iodized notes and molecules like calone and helional.
- Aldehydic freshness (metallic).
- Spicy freshness with fresh spices: ginger, cardamom, and pink pepper.
- Fruity freshness, with only certain fruits such as apple and pear.
- The “New Freshness” facet.
In the Delacourte Paris range, Valkyrie offers a very fresh opening contrasted by a warm base.
Dihydromyrcenol: The Birth of a New Wave
This facet was born from the association of citrus fruits and an extremely fresh synthetic fragrant molecule called Dihydromyrcenol (or DHMOL), created by IFF. This molecule was used for the first time in a perfume with a fougère accord: Cool Water by Davidoff (1988).
Dihydromyrcenol possesses a very invigorating odor, with a scent of clean laundry or detergent, which differentiates it from aldehydes. It is a booster for citrus notes.
New Freshness and Masculine Perfumes
Perfumers use this note to create masculine perfumes, often dressed with aromatic, green, or marine citrus notes, combined with the Fougère accord.
The classic Fougère accord (lavender, geranium, tonka) evokes the barbershop. Drakkar Noir is a classic fougère. Cool Water was the leader of this New Freshness, offering a scent of clean laundry dried in the open air, tenacious and musky.
This facet is representative of the archetype of the man stepping out of the shower, clean-shaven, whose shirt gives off a pleasant smell of laundry detergent.
Iconic Masculine Perfumes
- Acqua di Gio – Armani (Between marine and New Freshness)
- L’Eau d’Issey – Issey Miyake (Very marine as well)
- Body Kouros – Yves Saint Laurent
- Emporio Lui – Armani
- Only The Brave – Diesel
- Starwalker – Montblanc
- CK One Summer – Calvin Klein
- Gucci pour Homme – Gucci
- Hugo Man – Hugo Boss
- L’Homme – Yves Saint Laurent
- Gentleman Only – Givenchy
- Drakkar Noir – Guy Laroche
New Freshness and Feminine Perfumes (The Unisex Era)
In 1994, CK One by Calvin Klein opened these notes to a brand-new feminine audience, waiting for lightness and modernity. It was the first unisex perfume claimed as such. Dihydromyrcenol is used in it in a subtle way for a sparkling, airy, and invigorating freshness.
Today, New Freshness is no longer reserved for the sporty man: it associates with the contemporary woman in search of lightness, offering a “clean” and powerful top note.
