Oud in Perfumery: History, Rarity, and the Mystery of the Precious Agarwood

Origin, Rarity, and Sustainable Production of Agarwood

Oud comes from a tropical tree of the Aquilaria genus. When infected by a fungus called Phialophora parasitica, the tree produces a precious resin: oud wood, also known as agarwood or aloeswood.

This resin is rare: only one in a hundred trees naturally contains it. The resulting over-harvesting led to the species being threatened. Today, Aquilarias are protected in several countries, and controlled inoculation methods allow for more sustainable oud production.

Agarwood is mainly harvested in Southeast Asia. It gives off a dark, woody, intense note, both mysterious and sensual. It’s one of the most expensive raw materials in the world, reaching up to €40,000 per kilo.

Oud Today: The Shift from Tradition to Market Saturation

I first encountered oud in Japan during the Kōdō ceremony. Later, in the Middle East, I rediscovered its scent—ubiquitous, almost overwhelming: in malls, hotels, and private homes… oud is everywhere.

In Gulf countries, both men and women layer it over other fragrances. Traditionally, it’s burned as wood chips in blends called bakhoor, used to scent clothing and hair.

Since its debut in France in M7 by YSL (2002), oud has led to an avalanche of creations. Brands like Tom Ford and Juliette Has a Gun adapted it for European tastes, captivating Middle Eastern consumers. In most compositions, real oud is often replaced with reconstructions using cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, or incense.

The Oud Boom: Is the Material Losing its Soul?

Training sales teams in Dubai—the global perfume capital—led me to wonder: Has oud reached its limits? Today, oud is nearly as common as rose or musk.

A walk through Dubai Mall is enough to see that oud’s intensity has faded. The dark, animalic oud is being softened with white flowers, musk, or leather. The “goat-like” animalic facet is giving way to a brighter, more accessible interpretation. Oud is being “cleaned up,” softened, democratized… but is it losing its soul? Like any iconic raw material, oud follows the natural cycle of fashion: hype, saturation, decline… and maybe rebirth.

Iconic Oud Accords: The 13 Key Fragrance Combinations

The strength of oud lies in its ability to marry different olfactory families, creating powerful and complex sillage. Here are the defining combinations of high perfumery: