Journey to Ushant: The Sentinel Island at the End of the World
I don’t know why islands fascinate me so much; I especially love this one, because being wild, authentic, almost a bit “rugged,” it is little frequented by tourists, which does not displease me. There are very few cars, these being reserved for locals, so I strongly advise you, like me, to rent a bicycle.
Ushant (Ouessant) is also called The Island of Women. In the absence of husbands gone to sea, the women organized themselves, cultivated the land, helped each other, and today, the “matriarchal” spirit can still be felt.
This island at the end of the world is located at the extreme tip of France and therefore of Europe. It is shaped like a crab; it is sometimes besieged by the raging waters of the Atlantic, offering spectacles of great force and unforgettable beauty.
It sees more than 200 ships pass by every day. There are dozens of shipwrecks all around the island, the coasts being particularly dangerous due to numerous reefs. At the time, they used to say: “Who goes to Ushant sees his blood” (Qui va à Ouessant voit son sang).
How to get to Ushant?
If you really want a change of scenery, and to reach the wild nature of this island: two means are available to you, either the TGV Paris-Brest or the Paris-Brest flight.
- Sea crossing: Taxi, then boat at the Le Conquet pier – Penn Ar Bed Maritime Company (+33 2 98 89 02 12 – www.pennarbed.fr).
- By plane: Finist’air at Brest Guipavas airport (a 10-seat Cessna 208). Connections to Ushant twice a day at 8:30 am and 4:30 pm.
This is the reason why you must stay there for a minimum of 3 days, 4 being ideal, and a week to appreciate everything (The island is 4 km by 8 km and offers 35 km of coastline).
Where to stay on the island?
Several possibilities, which I have tested, because it is not the first time I have been to this island. There are 11 hotels on the island; the one I knew has just closed its doors, the Ti Jan Café! Alas! I think you can find quite a few rentals on Airbnb. The Auberge de Bel Air seems nice!
My recommendation: Alternatively, you can rent a small thatched cottage; I found a charming one, I called it “the blue paradise.” At Kerzoncou (the place of the wise), a small dollhouse, very neat and refined, with a 180° view of the sea, without forgetting the company of little lambs.
The garden is superb with flowers typical of the area: gorse with honeyed scents, spicy notes of blue wallflowers, arums in May and June for their elegance, majestic blue agapanthus in July and August against a background of heather.
Gastronomy and Local Specialties
I also advise you to try to find Ushant honey, a fairly rare product, which acts in Guerlain’s Abeille Royale creams (cf. The Black Bee of Ushant and its honey). You can find it in the mini-markets of Ushant Island.
Another specialty unobtainable in a restaurant: lamb stew cooked for 4 hours under the “mottes” (a sort of dried turf/sod), found in the moorland, a means of combustion that replaces wood, which is very rare on the island. You will not be able to forget this experience.
Speaking of restaurants, there are few: the pub TY KORN in the village of Lampaul has a dining room upstairs, and the creperie Ti AR DREUZ (house with a leaning facade, former travelers’ hotel).
Activities and Tour of the Island
In July, August, September if the weather is fine, do not miss the tour of the island and lighthouses on Jacky Thomas’s boat, a real sailor, looking a bit gruff, do not be fooled, he will very quickly transmit his passion for “his island” and the sea: a true enthusiast who will give you the tour (in 2 hours or 4 hours according to your desires): of the 3 lighthouses La Jument, Nividic, Kéréon, called the palace of the sea: decorated with marquetry.
Or by the Patron François Morin Association.
Bicycle rental on site: Florane Malgorn Ouessancycle. Florane or her husband can bring the hybrid bikes to your accommodation and you will benefit from a reduction of about 20% by coming from Marc Hembert. Their shop is located just behind the Spar store in the village of Lampaul. Tel: +33 6 81 89 11 41.
Travel without moving to Ushant
- Film: I hope you haven’t missed the film L’Équipier (The Light), with Sandrine Bonnaire and Philippe Torreton. I was very touched by this story which rings true: the atmosphere of Ushant is really very well transcribed.
- Book: A book to read to know more: Ouessant l’île sentinelle, by Françoise Péron.
The Magic of Ushant’s Light
In Ushant, the light is incomparable. It illuminates the flowers of the moor and makes the foam sparkle around the rocks. The last island of the Western world, nature has remained intact, the landscapes wild and grandiose. With an exceptional position, exceptional maritime signaling with two lighthouses on land and three lighthouses at sea.
In the former engine room of the Créac’h lighthouse, the most powerful in Europe, is the Museum of Lighthouses and Beacons, unique and fascinating. Let yourself be enchanted by Ushant during three horse-drawn carriage rides.
To fall permanently under the spell, the Ushant locals will serve you the delicious specialties of the island, the lamb stew cooked in turf clods and the famous smoked sausage.
