Neroli in Perfumery: The Fresh Essence of the Bitter Orange Tree

History and Legend

The name Neroli refers to Marie de Trémoille-Noirmoutiers, wife of Orsini, Duchess of Bracciano, Princess of Chalais and Neroli, who had fallen in love with the orange blossom and more specifically with its freshness.

Hence the association of her nickname, the Princess of Nerola, with her favorite product, Neroli. This Italian princess was crazy about neroli; she perfumed her bath, her clothes, her gloves, and her palace with this precious essence.

Origin and Bitter Orange Tree: A Tree of a Thousand Facets

Neroli comes from the tree, the bitter orange tree. The bitter orange tree is a very inspiring tree; one can exploit all its parts and therefore all its facets. Countries of origin of neroli: Italy, Spain, Morocco, Tunisia.

Products derived from the flower:

• Neroli (distillation)
• Orange blossom water (distillation)
• Orange blossom absolute (extraction)

Other products from the Bitter Orange Tree:

• Petitgrain: product of the distillation of twigs and leaves
• Bitter orange essence: comes from the zest of the bitter orange (cold expression)

Extraction and Differences (Neroli vs Absolute)

The bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium) is a tree highly appreciated by perfumers for its versatility and olfactory richness. Usually, white flowers cannot withstand steam distillation. Orange blossom is the only exception.

• Neroli: Obtained by steam distillation. It is fresh, airy, lavender-like, and floral.
• Orange Blossom Absolute: Obtained by volatile solvent extraction. It is the richest and roundest product, most often serving as a heart note.

There is also a little-known product, Eau de Brout, which is the water recovered from the distillation of petitgrain. Its scent possesses floral notes with slight animal facets.

Olfactory Description of Neroli

Neroli is, along with petitgrain, one of the freshest fragrances of orange blossom notes. It is fresh, floral, sparkling, and possesses a lavender and green facet. It also brings a lot of tenderness to a composition because it echoes many scented products or eaux de toilette for babies and children.

It is most often associated with citrus fragrances as well as Eaux de Cologne. It is not uncommon to find it in the top notes of fresh floral scents. It acts as a counterpoint to the absolute, which it lightens.

Price and Yield

To obtain one liter of orange blossom water, one kilo of flowers is needed. For one kilo of neroli, one ton is needed, which means that its price is very expensive.

Benefits in Aromatherapy

Thanks to its recognized benefits in aromatherapy, orange blossom relaxes, reassures, and awakens positive thoughts.

Perfumes Containing Neroli

Here is a list of some creations composed of neroli:

• Osiris by Delacourte Paris
• Fleurs de Citronnier by Serge Lutens
• Fleurs d’Oranger by Serge Lutens
• Histoire d’Oranger by L’Artisan Parfumeur
• La Chasse aux Papillons by L’Artisan Parfumeur
• Néroli by Goutal
• L’Eau d’Hadrien by Goutal
• Cologne by Thierry Mugler
• Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by Prada
• Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford
• Cologne Bigarade by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
• Néroli 3 by Le Labo
• Eau d’Orange Verte by Hermès
• Fleur d’Oranger by Molinard