The Perfume Accord: Definition, Composition, and the Great Olfactory Families
In perfumery, terminology is often borrowed from music, architecture, or jewelry-making. We speak of structure, olfactory pyramid, colors, facets, or orchestration to describe a fragrance. Among these concepts, the idea of an accord plays a central role. Just like in music, a perfume accord is a harmonious blend of several notes.
What Is a Perfume Accord? (The Core Signature)
An accord is a balanced combination of several raw materials (usually 6 to 10) designed to form a unique scent. It represents the expressive core of the fragrance — its olfactory signature.
There are two main types of accords:
- Simple Accord: A blend of a few ingredients (around 5) to recreate a recognizable scent, such as the pure essence of rose.
- Complex Accord: A more sophisticated composition combining many different notes to create an abstract bouquet (e.g., a tea accord built on jasmine, violet, and bergamot).
Examples of complex accords that defined generations:
- Jasmine + bergamot + violet = tea accord (found in Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, CK One, Déclaration by Cartier)
- Mint + lime + rum + sugar = Mojito accord (Guerlain Homme)
The Role of the Accord: Coherence and Olfactory Fusion
The accord is the guiding thread of the fragrance. It provides structure, coherence, and identity. The perfumer first builds the main accord and then dresses it with secondary notes.
An accord is not a simple sum of ingredients. It produces a fused and indivisible scent — a sort of alchemical transformation. In this sense, 1 + 1 + 1 = 1. This is what gives a perfume its richness and depth.
An accord can appear in the top, heart, or base notes — it may span the entire olfactory pyramid, ensuring a smooth transition between volatile and long-lasting notes.
Olfactory Families Born from Foundational Accords
Historically, certain combinations were so striking that they gave rise to entire fragrance families that define the industry:
The Fougère Accord (Classic Masculinity)
This accord is built on a strong contrast between fresh, aromatic notes and a warm, mossy base, dominating classic masculine perfumery.
- Aromatic notes: lavender, sage, rosemary
- Floral note: geranium or rose
- Tonka bean or coumarin, often combined with oakmoss (Evernyl base)
The Chypre Accord (Sophisticated Elegance)
The Chypre accord relies on a precise olfactory triptych, known for its powerful base and elegant freshness.
- Hesperide Top Note: Bergamot
- Floral Heart: Jasmine, rose
- Mossy/Earthy Base: Oakmoss (synthetic Evernyl), patchouli, labdanum
The Oriental or Amber Accord (Warmth and Sensuality)
This powerful accord is built on warm, resinous, and enveloping materials, ideal for depth and cold weather.
- Resins: Incense, myrrh, benzoin, styrax
- Ambergris, patchouli, vanilla
- Animalic notes, iris, labdanum (optional)
Iconic Perfumes Built on Distinctive Accords
Several cult fragrances owe their fame to a striking, instantly recognizable accord that defines their legacy:
- Paris, Yves Saint Laurent: Violet, rose, and woody accord (Iso E Super)
- No. 5, Chanel: Floral-aldehydic accord (rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang)
- Guerlain Homme: The signature Mojito accord (mint, lime, rum)
- Angel, Mugler: The groundbreaking gourmand accord (caramel, patchouli, red fruits)
- Samsara, Guerlain: Jasmine, ylang-ylang, and sandalwood accord
- Opium, Yves Saint Laurent: Spicy oriental accord (patchouli, clove, vanilla, benzoin)
