The Fougère Family: The Mythical Masculine Accord (Lavender, Tonka, Geranium)

1. Origin and History: From Napoleon to Fougère Royale

Fragrances of the fougère family do not possess the scent of the plant named “fern” (which is odorless).

After the trend of heavy and animalic perfumes, Napoleon I established the fashion for Eaux de Cologne. A little later, in the same movement, the fougère family would revolutionize masculine perfumery.

This name was given by the creation of the perfume Fougère Royale in 1882 by Perfumer Paul Parquet (Houbigant), which would set a new style for men’s perfumes. The fragrance Fougère Royale was notably prized by Guy de Maupassant.

The era of clean scents and fougères was dominant until the 60s, and this family was updated in the early 2010s.

2. Composition of the Fougère Accord

The accord is composed primarily of: bergamot, lavender, rosy notes (geranium), vetiver, oakmoss, tonka bean, and/or coumarin.

Around this fougère accord, different notes can intervene in the orchestration:

• Top Note: You will find aromatic notes: lavender, lavandin, rosemary, thyme, clary sage, mugwort, anise notes, chamomile, bay laurel, mint, etc. (cf. The Hesperidic Facet).
• Heart Note: Geranium (Pelargonium rosat with a rose scent), the carnation accord, or rose. The orange note gives a more modern tone (Methyl Anthranilate) and sometimes there may be Benzyl Salicylate (cf. The Solar Facet).
• Base Note: Tonka bean or its main molecule coumarin, vetiver, tree moss, sometimes vanilla, amber notes, leather (cf. The Leather Facet), or musky notes (cf. The Musky Facet).

3. Is the Fougère Accord Reserved for Men?

It is essentially a masculine family, a very popular family. It gives an olfactory impression of shaving soap, of soap, a sensation of hygiene. Let’s not forget that men came to this family of perfumes through the act of shaving.

The Evolution of the Family: From Clean to Sensual

This family has evolved over time: powdery, leathery, hesperidic, oriental. It has modernized over time either due to legislation issues (oakmoss restriction) or to target a younger clientele.

Fougère perfumes are appreciated for their diffusion, power, and presence. In the past, they were marked by their “hygiene” characteristic. But today, thanks to the presence of woods, rounder and warmer notes like amber or leather make them more nuanced, warm, and perhaps less targeted as strictly “virile.”

Modern Variants

• The New Freshness: To make it more modern, the perfumer can dress it with a new freshness facet (cf. The New Freshness Facet). In this case, the olfactory impression will give a more contemporary effect: the ambiance of a man stepping out of the shower.
• The Oriental Fougère: The amber or oriental facet (cf. The Oriental Family) added to the fougère accord in Brut by Fabergé gave a new orientation to this family.

4. A New Trend in Fougères (Vibrant Woods)

This family is recognized as very virile, invigorating, and dynamic. It is now seen orchestrated with fruity facets or ambery woody notes or very vibrant, powerful, and virile woody notes like Z11, Karanal, Ambrocenide, Limbanol, or notes in the same style.

Some Feminine Perfumes Containing the Fougère Accord

Although masculine, the fougère has seduced women. The perfume Canoë by Dana in 1936 and more recently the feminine perfume by Dior: Hypnotic Poison takes up the Fougère theme dressed in gourmand notes: vanilla and tonka bean (cf. The Gourmand Facet).

5. Perfumes Containing the Fougère Accord

• Invictus – Paco Rabanne
• One Million – Paco Rabanne
• Fuel for Life – Diesel
• R – Paco Rabanne
• Brut – Fabergé
• Sauvage – Dior
• Bleu – Chanel
• Géranium pour Monsieur – Frédéric Malle
• L’Orpheline – Serge Lutens
• Guerlain Homme – Guerlain
• Drakkar Noir – Guy Laroche
• Pour un Homme – Caron
• Kouros – Yves Saint Laurent
• Gucci by Gucci – Gucci
• Fleur du Mâle – Jean Paul Gaultier
• Chrome Legend – Azzaro
• Jicky – Guerlain
• Mouchoir de Monsieur – Guerlain
• Cerruti 1881 for Men – Cerruti
• Eternity for Men – Calvin Klein
• Egoïste Platinum – Chanel
• English Lavender – Yardley
• Azzaro pour Homme
• Cool Water – Davidoff
• Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme
• Eau de Minthé – Diptyque