Castoreum: History, Leathery Scent, and the Prohibition of This Animalic Note
Castoreum is an oily secretion derived from beavers. Though now banned in perfumery, it was once one of the most iconic natural animalic notes, alongside: Civet, Animalic musk, Ambergris, and Hyraceum.
The History of Castoreum: Fixative, Hunting, and Prohibition
Discovered by Alexander the Great around 330 BC, animalic notes have long fascinated perfumers for their intensity and longevity. Used in small doses, they acted as precious fixatives, adding sensuality and depth without overwhelming the composition.
Castoreum was sourced mainly in Canada and Russia, where beavers were hunted—particularly in January—for their fur and scent glands. Around 5 kg of raw castoreum was needed to obtain 1 kg of absolute.
Prohibition and Legal Status
Castoreum was banned from perfumery around twenty years ago. This prohibition followed initiatives by groups such as the WWF (World Wildlife Fund) due to the necessity of killing the animal for its glands.
Today, only ambergris is permitted among the natural animalic notes, as it does not harm animals.
Historical Uses Beyond Perfume
Historically, castoreum was used in medicine (treating epilepsy, headaches, fevers) and in food flavorings (notably vanilla and tobacco products). During the Middle Ages, perfumers crafted pomanders (scent jewels) containing castoreum to mask unpleasant odors.
Castoreum Scent Profile and Modern Alternatives
The highly complex scent of castoreum is its defining feature, making it indispensable for certain classic accords.
Scent Profile and Use in Perfumery
Castoreum smells leathery, animalic, and smoky. It evokes nuances of fur, ink, plum, black olives, and dried fruits.
It was popular in Chypre, oriental, and leathery perfumes. The scent glands were processed using volatile solvents to produce a resinoid or an absolute.
Ethical and Synthetic Alternatives
Today, the industry relies on alternatives to recreate the smoky, animalic facet:
- Synthetic Castoreum: Compounds that mimic the scent (e.g., Artessence). While not identical, they are very close.
- Plant-based Musks: Ambrette seed is the main natural vegetal musk.
- Botanical Animalic Notes: Perfumers use materials rich in animalic nuances that do not harm animals, such as:
These innovations ensure that the sensual, leathery facets are preserved ethically in modern perfumery.
