Eau Fraîche: Definition, Difference with Cologne, and Summer Perfumes

What is an Eau Fraîche?

From the second half of the 20th century, Eaux de Cologne provided inspiration for Eaux Fraîches. These possess a more faceted and more tenacious construction than classic Eaux de Cologne.

They are also more diffusive, and are not constituted in the same way as classic Eaux de Cologne, which are composed of 99% natural raw materials.

Technical Composition

Eaux Fraîches (concentration of 6% to 15%) possess slightly chypre base notes (with mosses, or patchouli for example) and woody notes (notably with vetiver or cedar) as well as floral notes of jasmine.

They contain synthetic notes, notably thanks to the famous Hedione from Firmenich, which contributed to making fresh notes last in a perfume. The first Eaux Fraîches to emerge were Eau Sauvage, Eau de Guerlain, as well as Eau de Rochas.

Eaux Fraîches and the Hesperidic Family

Recall that a perfume is organized in the form of a complex architecture of several components, which assemble to create “an accord”. Eaux Fraîches belong rather to the hesperidic family (citrus), which is very often dressed with a chypre facet, or a New Freshness facet.

In the olfactory pyramid, the hesperidic facet is present in almost all perfumes, which it dresses in top notes. It is therefore a very volatile and not very tenacious facet, much like Eaux Fraîches.

When and Why Use an Eau Fraîche?

Thanks to their freshness and sparkle, Eaux Fraîches are particularly adapted to hot days (summer).

The “Parenthesis” Perfume: Eaux Fraîches can be used simply if you wish to change fragrance according to your mood, or during vacations or a weekend. This will allow you to take a break from your usual “signature perfume” (often richer).

If we compare perfumery to makeup, it would be like switching from very sophisticated makeup (smoky eyes, bright lipstick) to nude makeup, more natural.

Emblematic Eaux Fraîches

“Institutional” Eaux Fraîches

• Eau Sauvage – Dior
• Eau – Guerlain
• Ô – Lancôme
• Eau – Hermès
• Eau d’Orange Verte – Hermès
• Eau – Cartier
• Eau – Givenchy
• Eau Fraîche – Dior
• Les Eaux Fraîches – Roger Gallet
• Les Eaux de Politesse – Serge Lutens

Modern Fragrances Considered as Eaux Fraîches

• Aqua Allegoria – Guerlain
• Eau Dynamisante – Clarins
• Eau de Soleil Blanc – Tom Ford
• Néroli Portofino – Tom Ford
• Les Escales – Dior
• Les Jardins – Hermès
• Eaux de Cologne Atelier Cologne: Orange Sanguine
• Citron Noir – Hermès
• Yuzu Man – Caron
• Dimanche à la Campagne – Guerlain
• Bronze Goddess – Estée Lauder
• CK One – Calvin Klein
• Thé – Bulgari

There is no particular regulation concerning Eaux Fraîches. Each brand can therefore choose to call its product “Eau Fraîche”.

The Olfactory Scheme of Eaux Fraîches

In order to create Eaux Fraîches, perfumers often use the DNA of an original fragrance, which they dress with very fresh notes:

• Citrus notes
• Green or vegetal notes (cut grass)
• Marine, oceanic, or iodized notes
• Fresh floral notes (peony, freesia, sweet pea, lily of the valley, lilac)
• Fresh fruity notes (melon, watermelon, pear, apple)
• Aromatic notes (mint, anise, lavender)
• Aldehyde notes

Fresh Variations of Famous Perfumes

For Men:

• Dior Homme Cologne
• L’Homme Idéal Cologne / Cool – Guerlain
• Le Beau Mâle – Jean Paul Gaultier
• L’Homme Ultime – Yves Saint Laurent

For Women:

• Chance Eau Vive / Eau Fraîche – Chanel
• Shalimar Souffle de Parfum – Guerlain
• Eau Fraîche Addict – Dior
• Eaux Fraîches at Mugler, Caudalie, Nuxe, Miu Miu, La Vie Est Belle, and Sisley.