The Aldehyde Facet: The History of Synthetic Notes that Revolutionized Perfumery
In music, we speak of an accord to designate a combination of simultaneous notes forming a whole. In perfumery, we find this notion of accord too. It constitutes the main theme of a perfume. As for the notes, they are the components, generally between 5 and 10, which once assembled form this accord.
One or several facets can dress it; the more facets there are, the more complex the perfume’s architecture. To navigate this, the French Perfume Committee classifies perfumes according to their olfactory family (citrus, floral, amber, chypre, woody, fougère).
Definition of Aldehydes and Scientific Origin
The Origin of Aldehydes
It was at the beginning of the 20th century that aliphatic aldehydes, synthetic molecules, were discovered. In 1835, Baron Von Liebig, a German chemist, isolated them to be used sparingly in formulas at first, then finally becoming indispensable in perfumery laboratories.
Aldehydes in Chemistry: A Carbon Chain
In chemistry, an aldehyde is a particular group of atoms. Aldehydes are designated by a linear chain of carbons of varying length, for example: C1, C2, C3 … C12. But traces of these aldehydes are also found in nature, notably in citrus notes or certain other fruits.
It was in 1903 that Monsieur Darzens discovered the way to stabilize certain aldehydes, notably aldehyde C12MNA, with a cold, very characteristic smell of metal, “clean,” and slightly citrusy.
Aldehydes in Perfumery: A Separate Category
But in the language of perfumery, aldehydes refer to a very specific category. Aldehydic notes pair particularly well with floral notes (see Floral Family), the chypre or woody facet by helping to strengthen the sillage of a perfume (see Where to Apply Perfume?).
However, there are aldehydes that bear the name but do not belong to this olfactory category (they are fruity notes):
- C 14: peach note
- C 18: coconut smell
- C 16: raspberry
The First Uses of Aldehydes in Perfumes
The use of aldehydes marked a turning point in the history of olfactory creation.
- The Precursors: Houbigant and Guerlain. The first perfumes to use this molecule were Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant, a multi-floral bouquet, and L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain in 1912.
- Ernest Beaux and Chanel No. 5. It was Ernest Beaux, in 1921, then perfumer for Chanel, who first “overdosed” aldehydes C10, C11, C12 MNA, which he associated with noble jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang to make an abstract bouquet. This was the incredible success of Chanel No. 5 which launched a new olfactory family: the Floral Aldehyde.
The Legend of Chanel No. 5
It is said that Coco Chanel herself entrusted Ernest Beaux with the desire to have a “modern and vibrant” perfume. Originally, the fragrance was composed of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang. What makes this perfume modern is the dosage of aldehydes. The story goes that by intentionally reinforcing these aldehydes by 1%, Ernest Beaux wanted the floral notes not to take over.
Another, more anecdotal version tells that this dosage which made the success of No. 5 was the result of a manipulation error… As for the name of the perfume itself, the famous number “5,” it would also be the number of trials it took to achieve the legendary formula!
The Elnett Anecdote
In 1960, L’Oréal’s Elnett hairspray also used these aldehydes in the formula, which gives it that recognizable “clean” and hairdresser scent.
The Olfactory Role: “Aldehydes Make Flowers Sing”
Finally, we can say that aldehydes, these “laboratory flowers“, give power and bring great clean and metallic freshness, a shine, a vibration to a perfume. They make “flowers sing” revealing a modernity to the classic notes of a perfume.
Some Iconic Aldehydic Perfumes
- Arpège Lanvin (1927)
- Liu Guerlain (1929)
- Je Reviens Worth (1932)
- Fleurs de Rocaille Caron (1933)
- Madame Rochas Rochas (1960)
- Calèche Hermès (1961)
- Diva Ungaro (1965)
- Chamade Guerlain (1969)
- Calandre Paco Rabanne (1969)
- Rive Gauche Yves Saint Laurent (1971)
- First Van Cleef (1976)
- White Linen Estée Lauder (1978)
- Courrèges in Blue Courrèges (1983)
- La Pausa Les Exclusifs Chanel (2007)
- Beige Les Exclusifs Chanel (2009)
- Izia Sisley (2017)
