The Marine Facet: Guide to Iodized, Aquatic, and Ozonic Notes

What Is the Marine Facet?

Marine notes refer to the sea, possessing scents of sea spray, algae, or sun-warmed sand. They are also called “iodized,” “aquatic,” or “ozonic” notes. They are very invigorating, very fresh, and limpid, but also powerful, like the scents you might remember from your holidays by the sea, with brisk sea air whipping your face with icy spray.

These marine notes allow you to regain these sensations of salt water and connote freedom.

They appeal to both men and women and are especially appreciated in summer. However, like solar notes, they can be worn all year round to recall the scents accompanying your escapes to the open sea. These notes blend particularly well with the New Freshness facet, citrus, aromatic, or floral notes. However, they are sometimes associated with all other olfactory families (oriental, chypre, and woody).

Origin and History of Marine Notes

The marine facet was used for the first time in the perfume New West for Her by Aramis in 1990, which then inspired many others. This facet was very successful in the 1990s and continues to be used today, notably in “sport” versions of iconic perfumes.

Synthetic Marine Notes (The Calone Revolution)

One of the first synthetic marine notes was a molecule invented in 1966: Calone. It possesses an aqueous scent, evoking iodized air, as well as a slightly green and aniseed note, with a watermelon and melon facet. The discovery of this molecule was actually the result of chance. It was originally developed for pharmaceutical purposes, which proved disappointing.

Chemists then noticed a very powerful and strange smell of fresh green leaves reminiscent of melon and decided to file a patent. Finally falling into the public domain, this molecule was then duplicated under other names by many perfume houses (firlone, aquamor…).

As the magazine Nez explains, Calone is very powerful: “adding a quantity equivalent to a grain of salt would be enough to scent an Olympic swimming pool.”

Other Modern Marine Molecules:

• Azuzone: Discovered more recently by Givaudan in 2000, this exclusive molecule is even more powerful than Calone (used by Etat Libre d’Orange).
• Helional: Discovered in 1958, it is more discreet, less direct, and softer, with a slight green facet and notes of cucumber and melon.
• Ozonic Notes: Floralozone (sensation of fresh air), Scentenal, Melonal (more fruity and aqueous).
• Evernyl: A slightly marine wood moss note, between the smell of algae and the mineral of waves crashing against a rock.
• New Arrivals: Oceanol, maritima.

Natural Marine Notes

There are also natural marine notes like Sea Fennel (Christe marine).

It is also possible to use an interesting note derived from algae. These are treated by volatile solvent extraction (to give an algae absolute). They offer a very refreshing sensation, with an iodized temperament. These notes allow you to regain the euphoric sensations of the seaside and instant energy.

Moreover, these notes can be used as “technical notes” to sublimate the freshness of a fragrance, as they are very effective in giving sillage and presence. They will then be used sparingly and will not offer an obvious perception of marine notes.

Conclusion

These notes allow you to escape everyday life and find the sensations of the open sea, which can respond to the aspiration for a more ecological world.

Iconic Perfumes with a Marine Facet

• Coco Fizz Aqua Allegoria Guerlain
• Soleil Blanc Tom Ford
• Vanilla Vibes Juliette Has a Gun
• Acqua Di Gio Armani
• Cool Water Woman Davidoff
• Sel Marin James Heeley
• Cool Water Davidoff (The masculine icon)
• Eau Océane Biotherm
• Polo Sport Ralph Lauren
• Un Air de Bretagne Artisan Parfumeur
• Le Champ de Camargue Artisan Parfumeur
• Acqua Forte Cerruti
• Alma de Rosario Mizensir
• L’Eau d’Issey Issey Miyake (in 1992, a huge success)
• Aqua Marine Bulgari
• Vents et Marées Molinard
• Escape for Men Calvin Klein
• Bleu Chanel
• Allure Homme Sport Chanel
• Boss The Scent Hugo Boss
• Un Jardin sur le Nil Hermès
• Un Jardin Après la Mousson Hermès
• Eau des Merveilles Bleue Hermès
• Vanille Galante Hermès
• Dior Homme Sport Dior
• Lucky Christian Dior
• Replica Maison Margiela
• Rem Reminiscence (The iodized precursor)
• Lady Rem Reminescence
• L’Homme Cologne Bleue Yves Saint Laurent
• L’Homme Idéal Sport Guerlain
• 1828 Jules Verne Histoires de Parfums
• CK One Calvin Klein
• Flower Kenzo
• Acqua di Scandola Parfum d’Empire
• Lys Méditerranée Frédéric Malle