The Olfactory Facets: Complete Guide to Perfume Architecture and Notes
The architecture of a perfume is visually represented as an olfactory pyramid, with the top forming the top notes, the middle section the heart notes, and the base the base notes. This structure allows the perfumer to balance the orchestration of their formula and make the evaporation of their fragrance continuous and gradual.
A perfume is built around a main accord (its theme). The French Perfume Committee (CFP) classifies these accords into 6 perfume families: Citrus, Floral, Amber (Oriental), Chypre, Woody, Fougère.
But to make the architecture more complex, the perfumer can dress each main theme with one or several olfactory facets.
Top Facets (Freshness and Opening)
These are the most volatile notes, those that give the smile and the first impression.
- The Hesperidic Facet: Composed of citrus fruits (lemon, orange, bergamot, yuzu). Fresh, lively, and fusing. (Read full article)
- The New Freshness Facet: More “technical,” it evokes splash notes, very tonic and clean (fresh laundry), often used in masculine perfumes. (Read full article)
- The Aromatic Facet: Composed of fresh herbs (mint, lavender, rosemary, thyme). Freshness with a lot of character and naturalness. (Read full article)
- The Marine Facet: Iodized or oceanic notes (Calone) that give a fresh and tonic wind effect. (Read full article)
- The Green Facet: Scent of cut grass, sap, crumpled leaves (Galbanum). Invigorating and spring-like. (Read full article)
- The Aldehyde Facet: Synthetic notes with “clean and metallic” scents. They make flowers vibrate and give power. (Read full article)
Heart Facets (Character and Signature)
They develop after a few minutes and constitute the heart of the perfume.
- The Floral Facet: Very vast (spring flowers, white, powdery, spicy). Green flowers act in the top, white flowers (jasmine, tuberose) in the heart. (Read full article)
- The Solar Facet: Exotic flowers (ylang-ylang, frangipani, tiare) and salicylated notes that smell of hot sand. (Read full article)
- The Fruity Facet: Fresh fruits (pear, apple), red fruits (cherry), or exotic (coconut, mango). Brings a playful or gourmand touch. (Read full article)
- The Spicy Facet: Fresh spices (cardamom, ginger) act in the top, warm ones (cinnamon, saffron) in the heart and base. (Read full article)
Base Facets (Longevity and Sillage)
These are the most tenacious notes, those that remain on the skin or clothes.
- The Woody Facet: Vetiver can be in the top/heart, but sandalwood, cedar, oud, and patchouli are structuring base notes. (Read full article)
- The Chypre Facet: Always woody (moss, patchouli) with a bergamot top and a floral heart. An accord of character. (Read full article)
- The Oriental or Ambery Facet: Accord of resins, balms, vanilla, and patchouli. Sensual and enveloping. (Read full article)
- The Gourmand Facet: Regressive notes (vanilla, caramel, praline) that tickle the taste buds. (Read full article)
- The Powdery Facet: Vaporous scents (Iris, Violet, Mimosa) evoking rice powder. (Read full article)
- The Musky Facet: Provided by white musks. Soft, cocooning, and very tenacious notes (“clean” effect). (Read full article)
- The Leathery Facet: Smoky notes, tobacco, birch. Very distinctive and originally masculine. (Read full article)
- The Fougère Facet: Mythical masculine accord (Lavender, Geranium, Tonka) evoking shaving soap. (Read full article)
Conclusion
If a perfume is orchestrated with many facets, it is said to be faceted. The more faceted it is, the more complex it is and offers surprises as it evolves. A less faceted perfume is more direct and will appeal more to people looking for simple and pure fragrances.
