Chypre Perfume Characteristics

Complex and Nuanced Accords

A chypre perfume can take on many different facets:

• Green: Miss Dior by Dior
• Fruity: Mitsouko by Guerlain, Femme by Rochas
• Musky: For Her by Narciso Rodriguez
• Leathery: Cabochard by Grès (see leather facet)
• Floral: rose in Aromatics Elixir by Clinique

In modern formulations, oakmoss (restricted by IFRA) is often replaced with patchouli or evernyl.

A Bold Olfactory Signature

Chypre fragrances are usually understated in the top and heart notes but reveal intense, long-lasting base notes. They suit charismatic, original, and bold personalities.

A Brief History of the Chypre Family

Origin of the Word “Chypre”

The term “chypre” appeared as early as 1588, inspired by the island of Cyprus—renowned for oakmoss-scented gloves and central to the trade of Oriental perfumes (see leather facet). The exact etymology, however, remains unclear.

Diverse Historical Uses

Chypre compositions have appeared in various forms over time:

• Powders: for wigs, sachets, or hair—blended with musk, civet, amber, oakmoss, iris, and cyperus.
• Burning chypres: known as “oiselets de chypre,” used since the Middle Ages. These trochisques released pleasant aromas when burned.
• Chypre waters: fragrant liquid blends, typically rich in musk and amber.

In the 17th century, apothecary Nicolas Lémery made “oiselets” using willow charcoal, labdanum, musk, ambergris, styrax, benzoin, cinnamon, clove, and elemi oils.

Chypres in the Modern Era

A Period of Transition

From the late Second Empire to World War I, organic chemistry revolutionized perfumery: vanillin (1874), coumarin (1878), ionones (1884), and nitro musks (1888). These new molecules enriched the traditional chypre base.

Notable Chypre Perfumes from This Period

• 1850: Eau de Chypre – Guerlain
• 1893: Chypre de Tentation – Roger & Gallet
• 1894: Cyprisime – Guerlain
• 1898: Chypre – Lubin
• 1909: Chypre de Paris – Guerlain

Coty and the Chypre Breakthrough

In 1917, François Coty launched Chypre, the first mass-market fragrance of its kind. A major success, it marked the dawn of modern perfume marketing.

A Symbol of Female Empowerment

Women, increasingly independent during and after WWI, embraced more “masculine” codes—short hair, driving, trousers. Chypres reflected this liberated femininity: bold, powerful, and sophisticated. A sharp contrast with the powdery, floral scents of the pre-war era.

The Rise of Contemporary Perfumery

Until around 1950, dozens of chypre fragrances were released. With the 2012 IFRA ban on oakmoss due to allergenic risks, perfumers turned to modern alternatives like evernyl or patchouli to retain the chypre structure.

How to Describe a Chypre Sensation?

To the untrained nose, a chypre note often evokes damp woods, forest undergrowth, or autumn leaves. Charismatic and enigmatic, chypres can be interpreted as masculine or feminine. This family is known for its elegant complexity and its refined contrast between citrusy top notes and earthy, mossy bases.

Chypre Perfume Examples

Chypre Perfumes for Women

• Miss Dior – Dior
• Mitsouko – Guerlain
• Femme – Rochas
• Cabochard – Grès
• Aromatics Elixir – Clinique
• Coco Mademoiselle – Chanel
• For Her – Narciso Rodriguez
• Diva – Ungaro
• Eau du Soir – Sisley
• Gucci Rush – Gucci
• Coriandre – Jean Couturier
• Ysatis – Givenchy
• Nomade – Chloé
• 31 rue Cambon – Chanel
• Rose Rouge – Van Cleef & Arpels
• Si Fiori – Armani
• La Panthère – Cartier
• Hacivat – Nishane
• Cadenza – Sospiro
• Earth – Jil Sander
• Club Couture – Frédéric Malle
• Pas Ce Soir – BDK
• Scandal – Jean-Paul Gaultier
• Portrait of a Lady – Frédéric Malle
• Si – Armani
• Musc Nude – Narciso Rodriguez

Chypre Perfumes for Men

Also read: Masculine perfumes with a leather facet.

• Aramis – Estée Lauder
• Polo – Ralph Lauren
• Antaeus – Chanel
• Kouros – Yves Saint Laurent
• Yatagan – Caron
• Halston Z14 – Halston