Cannabis in Perfumery: CBD, Terpenes and Olfactory Accords

The trend of cannabis cosmetics has extended to the field of perfumery. Indeed, firming, moisturizing, and soothing properties are no longer the only sources of interest for this plant with the scent of the forbidden.

Cosmetics: The Difference Between CBD and CBG

In cosmetics, CBD, CBG, and other cannabinoids are used in their pharma-grade isolate form (99.9% purity); there are some certified COSMOS provided with 24-month stability tests and compliant with cosmetic standards.

• CBD (abbreviation of the term cannabidiol): It is used for its active properties, derived from cannabis used in cosmetics or as an anti-stress agent, when ingested (non-psychoactive). CBD is rather regenerating and has power over immunity.
• CBG (abbreviation of the term cannabigerol): Derived from cannabis (non-psychoactive), it is rather regulating.

Its olfactory properties give interesting and original aromatic accords that blend harmoniously into the heart of perfumes. These fragrances express a desire for transgression, to break codes within a society adept at virtuous perfumes.

Origin of Cannabis and Beliefs

Cannabis is a green plant originating from Asia. It belongs to the Cannabaceae family. Morocco and Mongolia were the first cannabis producers in the world. Now, many countries cultivate it.

The exploitation of the cannabis plant depends on its THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) content, contained in the resins of this species. A distinction is made between Indian hemp used for its medical and psychotropic properties and agricultural hemp whose industrial uses vary (fabric, plastic, paper, etc.).

It can be noted that cosmetic brands often highlight the term “hemp” rather than CBD which is less well accepted.

A Millennia-Old Plant

Throughout history, cannabis has been widely used since its first uses date back to the Neolithic period.

• In India: Cannabis has been used since the Vedic period (1500 or 2000 BC). In a spiritual context, it helps to enter a trance. It is also often associated with the god Shiva in Hinduism. In India and Nepal, cannabis is one of the five sacred plants of the ancient world.
• In Africa: The custom of certain tribes is to smoke cannabis in pipes made from gourds.
• In China: In Chinese shamanism, the psychotic properties of hemp are used in traditional Chinese medicine to stimulate the spirit.
• In Europe: In ancient Germanic mythology, cannabis was linked to Freyja, the Scandinavian goddess of love. By ingesting the cannabis plant during the harvest, the divine strength of the goddess was said to influence spirits.

Cannabis was considered a magical plant allowing the cure of all sorts of ailments. It was also dried and burned on hot stones and the smoke that emanated from it was supposed to allow communicating with spirits by disconnecting from reality. Hashish is also known as the true wine of Dionysus in Greek mythology.

Hashish is the name commonly given to cannabis resin. It comes from an extraction of the resin of female cannabis flowers. However, the use of cannabis was gradually regulated from the 20th century. Its recreational use tends to be legalized in certain countries of the world in the 21st century.

There are many clinics especially in the USA and Spain that use extractions of THC and CBD to treat certain serious conditions like epilepsy, multiple sclerosis, Tourette syndrome, effects of chemotherapy, etc.

Cannabis Terpenes and Olfactory Linking

The olfactory interest of hemp (generic and broad name) is therefore a novelty. Its cosmetic and medical properties are extracted from CBD, CBG, and other cannabinoids.

Its olfactory properties come from terpenes, a category of odorous molecules also responsible for the aromatic scent of many plants used in perfumery. Indeed, terpenes are found in mint, cinnamon, cloves, lemon, lavender… Cannabis reportedly contains about 200 of these molecules.

Cannabis can therefore have many facets. Sometimes aromatic, camphorated, green, mentholated, or nettle-like, it can be lavender-like, hay, tea, tobacco, very resinous scent, sometimes fruity evoking mango, sometimes iodized smelling of algae.

It can evolve towards very dry and woody, animalic odors but also towards an unpleasant smell of tar, of turpentine. Cannabis terpenes associate very well in woody, chypre, and aromatic notes.

List of Terpenes Present in Other Plants

Most terpenes extracted from cannabis are present in other aromatic plants:

• Limonene: Molecule with a citrus scent. It is present in most essential oils extracted from citrus fruits and aromatics such as orange, lemon, eucalyptus, Scots pine, turpentine, peppermint, mastic tree… It is also found in essential oils of spices such as nutmeg.
• Caryophyllene: Possessing spicy and peppery olfactory properties, is also present in essential oils of clove, cinnamon, rosemary, sage, basil, lavender, and hops.
• Pinene: Responsible for resinous odors is also present in sage, turpentine, pine nuts, linden, eucalyptus, Scots pine, angelica, red myrtle, rosemary, nutmeg, black pepper, galbanum, Roman chamomile…
• Linalool: Present in most essential oils, it brings a fresh floral touch. It is found in citrus and aromatic families with coriander, lavender and lavandin, neroli, petitgrain, basil, sage, bergamot, cardamom, thyme, and rosemary. It is also present in geranium and ylang-ylang.
• Geraniol: Also widely represented in essential oils. It is found notably in essential oils of geranium, rose, palmarosa, lemongrass, melissa, rosemary, petitgrain, neroli…
• Eucalyptol: Present in eucalyptus, marjoram, rosemary, bay laurel, red and green myrtle, cardamom, lavender, peppermint, verbena, chamomile, tea tree, or basil.
• Citronellol: With a citrus scent is present in essential oils of geranium, lemongrass, eucalyptus, petitgrain, Douglas fir, or melissa.
• Myrcene: Can be found in incense, grapefruit, sweet orange, thyme, mint, parsley, and even ylang-ylang.
• Terpinolene: With an aromatic scent is present in marjoram, tea tree, juniper, mastic tree, thyme, eucalyptus, and nutmeg.
• Nerolidol: Present in greater quantity in neroli, but can also be found in ginger or lavender.
• Humulene: Present in sage, ginseng, and hops.
• Fenchol: Gives its characteristic smell to basil.

Examples of Perfumes with Cannabis Accords

Many perfumes evoke addictive substances like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Dior Addict by Dior, Tabac Tabou by Parfum d’Empire… But which perfumes actually contain cannabis accords?

Here is a non-exhaustive list of perfumes that display cannabis but nothing says that there really is any!

• Cannabis Perfume Oil by Malin+Goetz
• Smoke For The Soul by Kilian
• Cannabis by Malin+Goetz
• Cannabis Santal by Fresh
• Marijane by Alyssa Ashley
• Mugler Cologne, Fly Away by Thierry Mugler
• Replica Music Festival by Maison Margiela
• Cannabis Flower by Demeter
• The Herbalist by Heretic
• Jammin by Reminiscence
• Chronic by 19-69
• Black Afgano by Nasomatto
• Night by Akro
• Oxbow Man by Oxbow
• Stunned by Bel Rebel
• Cannabis by Il Profumo
• N°1 Eau Argentine by Iunx
• Absolument Absinthe by Absolument Parfumeur