Shalimar Review: Which Shalimar Should You Choose?

1. Shalimar and Me: A Troubled Story

Knowing Shalimar is impossible; it does not let itself be pinned down so easily. It charms the woman who wears it by making her feel that she is unique. No pretence: either you are Shalimar or you are not! It refuses lukewarmness, compromise does not suit it, and the alchemy either happens or it does not.

For 25 years, I have smelled many women who wore Shalimar beautifully. Some were blonde, others brunette or redheaded. I have even smelled it on men, with astonishment, but with delight.

But alas, Shalimar does not love me: on me, the dark, leathery and animalic notes come to the fore and bother me terribly.

2. What Makes Shalimar

Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 and presented in 1925, it is the mythical perfume of the oriental family. An overdose of citrus notes (above all bergamot) melts quickly into enveloping notes (rose, jasmine, iris, woody notes, tonka bean, balsamic notes). A voluptuous delight built around vanilla. Deep in the base, have you noticed its very sexy leather note?

It is the perfect illustration of an oriental perfume, also called amber. Besides, for me, it was Guerlain that first created this magical accord, with Jicky first, and more blatantly with Shalimar. Some detractors will say that it was a Coty perfume that created the first oriental, Ambre Antique (1905), but Jacques Guerlain started from the formula of Jicky (1889): so make up your own mind!

It is a signature perfume: Shalimar wearers are extremely loyal to it, because it really is a perfume that leaves a trace in other people’s memory. It has all the characteristics of a legendary perfume: creative, recognisable among a thousand, an incredible sillage, a hold of several days, even more, on clothes, and of a day on the skin.

Its whole story, from the Baccarat bottle to the gardens of Lahore, can be read in Shalimar by Guerlain: the history of a legendary perfume.

3. Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Extrait: Three Shalimars

The Shalimar range includes the eau de toilette, the eau de parfum and the extrait. Each time, the fragrance is reorchestrated and enriched in the eau de parfum and in the extrait.

  • Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Toilette: the lightest and freshest version.
  • Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum: more intense, and slightly different in its orchestration.
  • Guerlain Shalimar Extrait: richer still.

You may love the eau de toilette, admittedly fresher, and dislike the other concentrations, and vice versa. It is the alchemy with your skin that will deliver the verdict: if you love Shalimar, take the time to compare them on your skin.

My advice for wearing Shalimar well, to feel like yourself and leave a memorable sillage: the Shalimar body cream first, then the extrait on the pulse points (wherever you want to be kissed), and the eau de toilette or the eau de parfum on your clothes, for the sillage, according to taste or budget.

4. Shalimar L’Essence: The Shalimar That Loves Me

Fortunately, for Shalimar’s 100th anniversary, Delphine Jelk created a new fragrance, Shalimar L’Essence; this name is written in gold letters on the bottle. She pulled off the feat of keeping Shalimar’s DNA while modernising it and making it more accessible. It is just as hesperidic and oriental, but it is much less leathery and above all more musky.

This Shalimar L’Essence loves me! Perhaps it is a little less overwhelming than the original and has less sillage, but it nonetheless performs very well: it lasts at least 7 to 9 hours and holds excellently on clothes.

Olfactory pyramid of Shalimar L’Essence:

5. Which Shalimar for Whom?

Version What sets it apart For whom
Eau de toilette the lightest and freshest those who want a fresher Shalimar; can also be worn on clothes for the sillage
Eau de parfum more intense, slightly different orchestration those who want Shalimar every day, with more presence
Extrait richer still on the pulse points, for those who want Shalimar in all its depth
L’Essence (2025) less leathery, more musky, softer; 7 to 9 hours those who love Shalimar but want a change, and those who find it too powerful, too present or too classic

6. My Verdict

L’Essence is for those who love the original Shalimar but want a change and a softer version, or for those who would like to wear Shalimar, like me, but cannot, because it is too powerful, too present, and perhaps too “classic”. L’Essence is more contemporary and easier to wear.

But both versions, the original Shalimar and Shalimar L’Essence, are made of many natural raw materials, and only the alchemy with your skin can decide between one and the other.

If you love Shalimar, I would also advise you to smell Le Labo Labdanum 18, Yves Saint Laurent Babycat or Chanel Coromandel.

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