Our take on Diptyque fragrances: Sylvaine Delacourte’s eye

1. Introduction: My encounter with 34 boulevard Saint-Germain

My very first review goes to a house that shaped the beginning of my career in perfumery. When I visited Diptyque many years ago, at 34 boulevard Saint-Germain, on the advice of a friend, I ran into two very famous French actors whom I greatly admired. I told myself she had been right: this address truly has “class”.

2. The house’s history and olfactory DNA

This house was founded by three artists—not perfumers, but people passionate about art and beauty: one is a painter, the second comes from the world of theatre, and the third is an interior decorator. At first, they sold their fabrics, along with objects picked up at flea markets or brought back from their travels. In a second phase, they decided to launch candles, and it was an instant success. Why the name Diptyque? Quite simply because their two shop windows were identical, so the name of the house was already there!

The famous, singular oval label was inspired by a fabric they had designed, with dancing letters to decipher by closing your right eye. This logo, recognisable among thousands, with a front that reads through the glass bottle, always contains a hidden message telling the story of the fragrance.

It was in 1968 that Diptyque took a leap forward and launched its first Eau de Toilette, inspired by a 16th-century potpourri and created by Norbert Bijaoui: its name, L’Eau. This confidential address gradually became a must-visit. It is one of the first niche houses to have preserved, to this day, its original spirit: graphic art, poetry, travel memories and a tribute to raw materials.

3. Sylvaine Delacourte’s critical opinion

I took advantage of my last visit to experience the fragrances that particularly struck me there. Many are very well executed and beautifully crafted. They are faceted, of high quality, with real presence, without falling into the current trend of “way too much bombshells”.

Diptyque always calls upon renowned perfumers, which very often results in beautiful, well-built fragrances. You can feel that there is an artistic direction that respects the house’s DNA. It is worth noting that there are now refillable candles; to me they are a little too pricey, but very stylish, and their fragrances were created by Olivia Giacobetti.

Nevertheless, I keep my critical eye. Here are two creations that convinced me less:

• My disappointment with Lazulio: There is one recent fragrance that let me down on the skin, even though it had appealed to me on the blotter. It is Lazulio from the new Les Essences collection, a green fragrance with notes of rhubarb and incense. It was created by Quentin Bisch, a perfumer known for creating striking fragrances with a nuclear sillage. Alas, Lazulio is very far from that: to me it is too timid, both in sillage and in wear, even though it has just received an award from the perfumery world.
• My opinion on L’Eau Papier: Another fragrance I didn’t like, even though the name and the idea appealed to me: it is L’Eau Papier. It contains woody amber notes that find no favour in my eyes. They land like a “black” stain in the middle of the whiteness of the musky notes, the rice steam and the mimosa. Those amber woods that I loathe, extremely dry, that scratch the nose and appear in so many recent launches, are an easy way to add a lot of power and sillage. To me, they are vulgar and garish.

4. The “Top 3” best Diptyque fragrances (and my hidden gems)

Here is my selection of fragrances, perfect for periods of great heat, but which can be worn all year round.

Fleur de Peau

• Olfactory family: Floral Musk
• Main notes: Musk, Iris, Pink pepper, Ambrette.
• Sylvaine’s opinion: This is my favourite. You know my love for musky notes, and I must admit I am very “demanding” in this register, but this one is a pure marvel. The musk combined with iris and pink pepper in the top notes makes it a highly addictive fragrance. It was created by a perfumer I loved dearly, who left us far too young: Olivier Pescheux.

Philosykos

• Olfactory family: Woody Fruity (Green)
• Main notes: Fig leaf, Fig, Coconut, Cedar.
• Sylvaine’s opinion: Built around the fig leaf, it is a very fresh fragrance with its crisp green notes and its woody notes in the base. Even though Premier Figuier by L’Artisan Parfumeur pioneered these notes in perfumery (milkier, more faceted), both were created by the same talented perfumer: Olivia Giacobetti.

Orphéon

• Olfactory family: Powdery Woody
• Main notes: Juniper berries, Cedar, Tonka bean, Jasmine.
• Sylvaine’s opinion: Created as a tribute to the late-night jazz bar located right next to the first Saint-Germain boutique. Olivier Pescheux managed to recreate the imagined atmosphere of that bar with very present tobacco and woody notes. It is a slightly retro fragrance. It isn’t my favourite, because these notes aren’t part of my personal olfactory register, but it is the house’s number-one worldwide bestseller: proof that it has great qualities.

The very Honourable Mentions (Absolutely worth testing)

• L’Ombre dans l’eau (1983): Recreates the atmosphere of an English garden after the rain, with its dew-covered roses and its blackcurrant notes. A green, fresh, vegetal fragrance that has inspired many other creations in the perfumery world.
• Do Son (2005): Inspired by a seaside resort in Vietnam. Fabrice Pellegrin worked with a tuberose, orange blossom and jasmine, refreshed by a sea breeze. I don’t particularly like tuberose, as it is often too narcotic and heady, but this one is rather fresh and solar.
• L’Eau des Sens (2016): An ode to the bitter orange tree (petitgrain, orange blossom, neroli) supported by juniper berries and patchouli. A remarkable sillage. I must admit I am a “fan” of orange blossom!
• Tam Dao (2003): Ideal for winter, to be shared between woman and man. A sandalwood (a very difficult note to work with) magnificently paired with cedar and cypress. Great respect for the work on the sandalwood: unlike some fragrances bearing that name, this one really smells of sandalwood. The Eau de Toilette was created by Daniel Molière and the Eau de Parfum by Cécile Matton.
• Vetyverio: A vetiver interpreted by Olivier Pescheux, fresh and floral. It has both character and is extremely easy to wear.

5. Verdict: Who is this house really for?

Diptyque launches many novelties every year thanks to an extremely rich catalogue (with occasionally sad disappearances, like my dearly missed Biscuit candle). It really is the boutique to cherish when looking for a gift that is sure to please. As I don’t like buying a fragrance for someone if I don’t know the name of their favourite perfume, I actually bought there the so-chic orange blossom “dish soap”!

The final word: If you like fragrances that are rather discreet, well-built, elegant with honourable sillages, go for it. On the other hand, if you are one of those who love a +++ sillage with notes of Oud or woody amber notes, keep moving. For now, Diptyque hasn’t let itself be lulled by the sirens’ song of the moment, namely scents leaning very fruity, very gourmand or very “Middle-Eastern” that you can smell a mile away.